Now is the Time to Mulch Your Planting Beds

        Very few materials distinguish an exemplary landscape from an average one like a layer of fresh mulch.  When performed well, the visual impact  of having a new layer of mulch spread over the planting beds is  striking in comparison to an adjacent property which has not been mulched for several years. Attention to such details as mulching the planting bed areas is an indication of the concern the homeowner or property manager has for the landscape.  Although I have spoken in earlier articles of the importance of mulch, I felt this would be a good time to remind ourselves of how the practice of mulching will benefit us and our landscapes.

       There is an obvious and immediate visual benefit to your property as a fresh layer of mulch provides a distinct line of demarcation between the lawn and bed areas and improves the curb appeal of your home.   There are some less obvious reasons for mulching your planting beds though.  From a landscape management perspective,  a layer of mulch between two and four inches thick provides a weed control measure.  Most weed seeds are tiny and have a limited supply of stored food.  Germinating weeds must produce their leaves quickly before this food supply is exhausted if they are to survive.  When a weed seed falls on bare soil, the weed  quickly  establishes itself to become an eyesore as long as there is enough soil moisture and sunlight.    Mulch materials do not provide a good environment for weed seedlings though.   Mulches are very porous materials which dry out quickly between irrigation and/or rain cycles.  Weed seeds which blow onto a layer of mulch often dry up and wither away before the weed seedling has a chance to get established in the landscape. 

         Mulches may be thought of as a thermal blanket to protect the root system of your landscape plants.   Although the stems of trees, shrubs, and groundcovers may withstand cold temperatures common to our area, most roots will be injured when the soil temperature drops below 40 or 45 F.  Also, roots can be injured or killed by excessively hot temperatures during the summer months.  Any injury to the root system will be expressed in the stems, leaves, flowers and fruits of the plant.  Mulch moderates temperature extremes throughout the year to help protect the plant.  The highly porous nature of mulching materials forms dead air spaces within the mulch profile to insulate the soil from the high and low temperature extremes of the surrounding air, just as double- and triple-pane windows provide insulation for your home.

      Timely application of mulching materials is a valid horicultural practice for conservation of resources.  During hot weather, much of the soil moisture needed by plants is lost through evaporation.  To compensate for this loss,  the irrigation rate must be increased, but that ultimately affects personal finances.  Bare soils quickly heat up during the hot summer days, increasing evaporation losses.  The same temperature buffering qualities which protect plant roots from temperature extremes also reduce evaporation losses from the soil and conserve soil moisture.

      We have all seen  the effects of heavy rains on bare soil, especially in sloped areas.  A layer of mulch over the planting bed areas is an important soil conservation practice.   Without a layer of protection for the soil,  the outer layers of soil are carried away by wind and water movements.  The loss may be gradual or it may be sudden, but the result is loss of a valuable resource.......the soil itself.  In time, erosion exposes plant roots to the air where they quickly dry out and die. 

       Most people do not think of mulch as a defense against plant diseases. However, many foliar diseases of plants occur when fungal spores on the surface of the soil are splashed onto plant leaves whenever it rains or the irrigation system is running.  When water droplets strike the angular mulch particles, they disperse along the surface of the planting bed rather than deflect upward toward the plant.  It has also been shown through horticultural research studies that certain types of hardwood bark mulches...... the most common mulching material in our area..... has a chemical composition which inhibits certain plant disease pathogens. 

      Since most mulching materials are organic in composition, they eventually decompose through the activity of microorganisms .  This has both positive and negative aspects.  The negative aspect is that the material must be periodically replaced.  With the rainfall and temperatures of our area, the decomposition rate is high enough that the mulch should be replaced about once a year.  The positive aspect of mulch decomposition is that the mulch breaks down to form a highly organic soil amendment.  As the mulch breaks down to simpler components, these materials move downward with rainwater and irrigation to the underlying soil.   As percentage of organic matter in the soil increases, so does the soil's aeration, water-holding capacity and nutrient-holding capacity.  Over time, the soil develops a more organic nature which is highly favorable to plant root growth and development.   In light of the many benefits,  having your planting beds mulched when needed is a worthwhile investment in the health and quality of your landscape.     

 

 

 

Lime - Does My Yard Need It

Many of you may have heard of the process of liming your lawn, but may not be aware of how this process can benefit your lawn.  Liming is a method of improving the efficiency of fertilizers applied to your lawn.

One of the indicators used to evaluate the health of your lawn is the soil pH.  Soil pH is a measure of whether the soil is acidic or alkaline.  The pH scale ranges from 1 to 14.  Soil pH levels approaching 1 are very acidic whereas levels approaching 14 are very alkaline.  A pH level of 7 indicates the soil is neither acidic nor alkaline and is often referred to as being neutral.  Lawns prefer a slightly acidic soil pH in the range of 6 to 7.  This is true of many shrubs, although certain acid-loving shrubs such as azaleas and camellias prefer a pH in the 5.0 to 5.5 range.

When plants are growing in ideal soil pH levels, nutrients from fertilizers are readily available for uptake by plant roots.  When the soil pH is either too high or too low, certain plant nutrients tend to react chemically with other components found in soil to form insoluble compounds which cannot be absorbed by plant roots.

 As a general trend, the soil pH tends to decrease over time because rainfall and irrigation tend to wash out soluble basic components in the soil.  Therefore, the soil tends to become more acidic.  Over time, plants may develop nutritional deficiency symptoms because the nutrients are unavailable by the plant even though they are present in the soil.  The nutrients may be in the soil, because fertilizer was applied, but the nutrients may be in a form that cannot be absorbed by plant roots.  To counteract this effect, horticulturists apply some form of liming material.  A liming material raises the soil pH so that nutrients will become soluble and available for toot uptake.  Therefore, the fertilizer efficiency is greatly improved.

 

If you are interested in finding out if liming would benefit your lawn, Rich-Way will provide a soil test to determine if you need this service performed.  The normal fee is $25.00, but when you mention that you saw this on our website we will waive this fee.

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